Revolution?

As you may all know Egypt is experience a moment of revolution. Since the 25th of January men and women, old, young, long haired, veiled, educated and uneducated have been taking to the streets to protest 30 years of Mubarek's rule, impoverished living conditions, a police state and a general lack of true freedoms. The first day of protests I was out of town. Yesterday the protesters were met with immediate police force. Beebee gun bullets and tear gas were used to separate the protesters, who were then chased through Cairo's streets and separated. Today the streets are unnaturally quiet for a Thursday night and it can be assumed that people are either afraid to leave or resting for tomorrow's events.

Tomorrow after noon prayers a large demonstration is expected. "They" have blocked facebook, blackberry networks are down and twitter has been blocked for the past few days. Proxy servers seem to be working. But, considering how few people have actual access to internet (especially compared to numbers in Tunisia) the gatherings have been large.

I have registered with the embassy, two years later, and no warnings have been sent out. I am safe and will not be taking part in the protests. While I support the idea and motivation of the protests, this is not my fight and is not something a foreigner should be involved in on the ground. The best coverage I have seen is the Guardian UK, they have pretty good updates. If you search on twitter #jan25th or #egypt a good thread should show up. If I am not on facebook this is why.

Email works. I have no clear idea of how far this will go and expect that the strength of tomorrow's demonstrations will set the tone for the rest of what could become a revolution.

Thanksgiving in Cairo- the pilgrims would never want to be here but I do.

After the whirlwind trip to the USA I returned back to Cairo to keep working at Square Cube Communications and keep living in Heliopolis. Well, those two things are over! I have moved down to Maadi and in with Ayman. Life simplified a great deal with one cross-town move.  I am now closer to most of my friends, closer to Ayman, across the street from one of the best restaurants in Cairo (Cellar Door Bistro), two blocks away from the metro and living in an incredibly pleasant home.

Then at the beginning of October Anastasia came to visit. Luckily I had a vacation and we went out to the Sinai. Of all the people I have wanted to show the Sinia to Anastasia was number one. We stayed at the Good Life, got a little tan and chilled out.  Then we went back to Cairo and I went back to work. Ana did some epic tourist activities with the help of Chrissie and a few solo.  We went out together at night. Not everyone I wanted her to meet was around and I was stuck at work during the day, but she caught a glimpse of my life here.  One of the best things about sister visits is that Anastasia takes amazing pictures, all the photos below were taken by her.

 Red wall at the Good Life :)

 Daily Nescafe 

 Side street downtown on the way to check out the Townhouse Gallery

 A gaggle of ladies alongside the Nile 

 How many dirty kitties can you see?

Anastasia walking through Khan El Khalili alley ways

While Anastasia was here I interviewed and was hired for a new job. Yes, another new job. Why you may ask? Despite the correct job title and initial interest in the work my daily activity had slowed to a standstill. The account I was hired for was drying up and there was little English work to be done. In short I was being wasted and was so board I wanted to cry everyday.

I now work at Rania’s Corner, a concept boutique. We sell high-end furniture, clothing knick-knacks, jewelry and other fun things. I manage the shop and assist Rania with what ever comes up. So far I love it. We had a fun event this week, a jewelry showcase. Plus, the customers are amazing people, the environment is fun, I get to wear better clothes and I am actually being used.  Even if all that was not true my new commute would make the change worthwhile. 

Compare:

Old work: 30 plus pounds in cab rides daily, wait at a gross gas station, drive through around two hours of nasty traffic both ways, and arrive at workplace in a not so developed new development.

New work: Two pounds daily-plus coffee, nice walk to nearby metro station, about an hour and half both ways,  metro allows for ipod listening and reading, exercise in the form of walking to and from stations, pleasant scenery and necessities nearby.  WINNER!!!!

 Winning at life-Anastasia and Faye.

In other news Chrissie and I launched a business. Cairo Cocktails, please become our friend on facebook. After being here for a while the two of us noticed a real gap in the service and quality of bartending at events and parties. Either you pay a ton to import fancy shmancy folks from Europe or you are stuck with cheap local bartenders who do not drink and make martinis with Martini and Rossi over ice. We are somewhere inbetween. We have great experience in customer service, bartending, are professional and passionate about bringing real cocktails to Cairo. We work with a host to prepare a specialized cocktail menu, make our own syrup infusions and have gotten a few gigs so far. 

Plus, Chrissie is a networking queen and has found a few other excellent Americans with bartending experience to help us out. Hopefully we can really get things going and have more fun.  People in general are enthusiastic about the idea and really supportive. We got a great write up in Quintessentially,  a concierge service found in almost every major city around the world.

 Jimmy and Ramez at their camp.

So life in Cairo goes well and I am fairly happy. We just had a big long vacation. I went back to the Sinai with Cairo friends and Fran (from UW-Madison), who was teaching in Tanzania and now traveling with her friend Jeffrey. They will be eating Thanksgiving Day dinner with us tonight.  Yeah, life sounds pretty good right?

Far far away in the Middle East/North Africa there is a girl…

Faye, who has very many things, people and places to be thankful for.  She is thankful for a family who makes her feel loved enough to do crazy stuff and takes their time and money to come visit (all of them now!), thankful for friends in Cairo who make this crazy city feel like home, thankful for business partners/best friends who put up with her, thankful for a new roommate who made his house her home and thankful for this big crazy beautiful, strange and loving world. 

Re-entry

I feel as if I start many posts with "Yes, I am still here," but I am still in Cairo. I wake up many days and have no idea how two years (more really) went past.  The fact that I have been here for two years was made more apparent and also less obvious when I went home.

Home, Seattle, was an occasion filled event.

Occasion number one, Burning Man. There are many things to be said, I don't think there are any pictures of me so I can't post them and this experience has no doubt changed my life for the better. Absolute inspiration and creativity does not even begin to give justice to what people (horribly normal people and amazingly freaky people) create for this extravaganza. I am still in awe. Ayman and Chrissie could not have been better first time Burn Buddies and if I did not love them for any other reason (which of course I love them for many reasons) those days in the desert would be reason enough to love them forever. Yes, Burning man inspires that sort of love. It is worth it, everyone needs another reason to love something, someplace or something.

I "borrowed" the pictures below from a facebook album Ayman made of various people's photos. I can take no credit.

 The actual layout of the Playa.

I don't know her name, but she was a few stories tall, lit up at night and made me happy to be human.

Occasion number two, Maya's wedding. The first of my best buddies from high school and life in general to get married and she did it right. The ceremony and wedding were filled with tradition, friends, family and crazy Jewish folk dancing. Maya altered her grandmother's wedding dress into something timeless and perfectly Maya (somehow delicate, unique and yet strikingly traditional). I met the groom, Ben, for the first time and was impressed in many ways. All of the ladies showed up, traveling from Paris, SF and Portland.

 Quill, me, Becca and Caitlin.

 Nan, Becca, Besty, me, Caitlin, Sarah and Emily waiting for the ceremony to start outside the newly remodeled Husky boat house.

Occasion number three, Ana was in town. Sister time is always a good time. Family times are also good times.

Occasions four and five, September family birthdays. I was not around for the actual date of my dad's b-day but close as I could get. For mom's actual date I was there and she hosted a wonderful ladies only brunch with lots new friends from the new neighborhood (finally got to put some faces to the names) and old friends from all around town. A delicious way to spend what turned out to be a sunny day. Also, later at a Georgetown bar I figured out spicy chai tea tastes amazing when steamed with a little bit of soy milk and enhanced with a generous shot of dark rum. If it was ever winter in Cairo it would be my drink of choice.

The trip home was also incredibly stressful. Lots of travel time in planes and airports, I got sick and I realized just how absent I have been from America. Expired driver's license, not able to get a doctors appointment, dentist check ins, forgotten street names and  lots of new buildings. I have also grown used to how hard simple things are to get done (for me) in Cairo and this attitude transferred to America. Where, things can be hard to get done but ultimately I know how to do them in my native country and I should have calmed down and relaxed. Lesson learned.

The return to Cairo was rough. I got a bad head cold and had I hoped my time in Seattle would shed light on where I really want to be at this moment, it did not shed much light at all.  I did find out Seattle can still be a new city for me. My friends there have managed to discover  unknown aspects of the city and get involved in different things. Their actions have assuaged my fear about going back to Seattle and finding it to be the same as it was for the first 22 years of my life or not as exciting.

A couple weeks after landing life is smoothing out and Cairo, as ever, is proving to be an amazing host. Just when you think the whole country is silly a tiny phone call proves you wrong, you meet someone who blows all expectations out of the water or a good conversation reminds you are really just having a bad day and your mood has very little to do with Egypt.

The best news is that Anastasia is coming to visit. More words of excitement to come about this later, Boom! Wham! Whoo Hoo! Awesome! Those are all I got for now.

Onward towards the promised land

As I pack and get ready to leave for my oh-so-exciting vacation to the West Coast I have to admit that the America I see in the headlines is horribly pathetic.

Let's take a sampling of the headlines from right now...

-Idiots protesting the "Three Blocks Away From Ground Zero and Within Walking Distance of  Strip Club Mosque" are making the entire USA look like bigots and hate filled Islamaphobic uneducated twits. What a surprise the whole debate and  is actually fueling Jihadist rhetoric and during Ramadan when everyone with a minaret has a particularly captive audience.

-An even bigger idiot in Florida is attempting to turn 9/11 into  "International Burn A Koran Day," wow Nazi!

-Politicians from New Hampshire are denying Global Climate Change. Really, in New Hampshire?

-Sarah Palin is still getting press, if you ignore her she will go away!

-Idiot Republicans are actually trying to get rid of the 14th Amendment, Anchor Babies? Democrats-you are horrible at thinking up witty phrases, get a new copy writer!

-People actually believe Obama is a Muslim. Really? Didn't he write a book about his faith? Can these people read?

Not so good. This depresses me. Two years later people still hate George Bush Jr, they still like Clinton (ha!), and they are beginning to see Obama as a fraud and no better than the rest. When you live abroad you get a lot of crap still for being an American and I have to respond. I used to be able to say things were changing, the mood of the country seemed to be happier and more intelligent. Now, I am scared I was dead wrong. I am scared that we are ignoring everything that is really important and focusing on stupid anchor baby inspired debates on the Right and on the Left the every present battle of who is the most liberal without actually supporting liberal policies because somehow they allowed the Right to call everything Socialist.  On the other hand my Canada jokes now have a twinge of sadness behind them because not so secretly I am jealous of my old Northern neighbor and I think the sadness adds another layer to the humor.

On this trip back I know I will see friends, attend a wedding of a best friend, and stare at mountains. I hope I find something else, something that will make me want to be in America.

Ramadan! Let's Go!

This is my third Ramadan in Cairo, only my second in a real workplace. Although, in the spirit of the season and honesty let's not call the school a real workplace, so this is really my first in a real workplace. What does Ramadan mean for me? People get sleepy and slow. My working hours shift from 10-6pm to 10-4pm. Daylight life hours are few and far between. Anyone who can swing shifts their work to night and sleeps all day. Anyone who is not into fasting, hates the vibe and can afford it leaves the country. Tons and tons of dates are consumed. Families have large meals and spend time together. The local networks compete for ratings with hours of movies. Finally, Ramadan like most religious festivals does not resonate deeply with me, but it does affect my daily life and if I had family close by it would be the perfect reason to sit around and do nothing with them.

The most exciting thing about this Ramadan? I am leaving for part of it! That's right, headed back to Seattle and the glorious West Coast for the first time in two years. Who knows how much I miss it. I have no idea so you have no idea. I leave Cairo on the 25th and stick around Seattle until September 15th. During that time I will attend the wedding of Maya Newman, the first one of my Seattle Ladies to get married, celebrate mom's b-day and celebrate dad's b-day (if a few days early). Otherwise I plan on walking up and down hills, maybe riding my bike around, drinking coffee, eating Paseo, staring at mountains, taking note of how many buildings have been torn down and replaced with condos, losing my tan, chilling in the rain, renewing my driver's license, hugging people I have not seen for two years, if I am lucky eating some Pacific Salmon and watching sun sets over the Olympics.


At this very moment the thought of packing and spending a horrendous amount of time on a plane makes me feel queasy, but in a few days I will be very excited. Cell phone is the same and if you are around Seattle let's hang out.

May through June = CRAZY

My oh my the fun times I have had recently. Sorry for no posts since forever, but this is how life goes.

First we should start with Suzie's crazy, whirlwind, non-stop three day visit to Cairo. She is crazy and I love her for it. What an honor to have someone come all the way here for only three days! She was picked up from the airport in the most amazing fashion ever with new friends and old. From then on it was non-stop. Highlights include a one day trip to Alexandria, delicious quail dinner/lunch at Andrea's (new to me), riding a camel for the first time by the Pyramids, plenty of girl chat, dominating Khan el Khalili and Suzie being her fantastic sunny self!

Our camels

After Suzie's departure I had about a week to prepare for my first trip back to America in nearly two years. The entire Ehrich family gathered in New York for the wedding of Nate and Vicky on Saturday June 12th in Bryant Park. They hosted a truly beautiful, thoughtfully planned, and delicious weekend. Outings included the most outrageous burger I have ever eaten, jazz, William's graduation luncheon, a trip up the Empire State Building, a very tasteful rehearsal dinner with drinks after and plenty of walking around. The wedding was gorgeous, bride and groom were impeccable, my champagne glass was never empty, the steak was perfectly pink, everyone danced all night, and they had a Polaroid photo booth. Please everyone who is getting married copy the photo booth idea. 

Stepping foot on American soil was not quite the shock I thought it would be. Still, chilling in Brooklyn with Ana and mom, plus friends was a good break. I also got some much needed daddy daughter time, mommy daughter time, sister time, a haircut, and over all family time.The weather was rainy (nice break really), I could wear shorts in the streets, caught a football match with Dad, had the option of an alcoholic drink at every meal, quality window shopping, phone to calls to the girls around the country (it has been years since I have talked on the phone with some of these ladies) and pork products!

Can't complain about the trip at all. Then back to Cairo where I was immediately taken to the beach for an amazing weekend. Then back to work and the beach every weekend since. Think I am sticking around Cairo this weekend, but who really knows. In the meantime I am planning a trip back in the fall to Seattle and life will move forward from there. What the past almost two months have taught me is that just when you really think you can't stand a place someone or something will flip it on its head and make you love it all over again if you are open to this action. Being open and receptive to new opportunities and people is the biggest lesson I learned while away from America. I have finely tuned my douche bag radar, which aids in knowing who and what to be open with. So, while I could see happily going back to the states anytime, I can't really see leaving Cairo just yet. Conundrum I know. Cairo has a momentum I like right now, I feel like jumping and and saying hello to all of it.

We went to the Empire State Building, such a touristy activity, but actually pretty cool. 

Note the shorts in a very public place, so awesome.

Here are some facts about Cairo and Egypt

Egypt has 81,527,172 people as of 2008.

Cairo has over 20,000,000 residents, I would say it is safe to add on another 2-5 million to that number.

Donkey carts have been outlawed in downtown Cairo in an effort to improve traffic.

The new "Ring Road" is 100 kilometers (62 miles) and as the name implies goes around the Cairo/Giza metropolis.

Cairo is considered a "Mega City," joining the likes of Mumbai, Mexico City, New York, Tokyo, and others.

One half of all hospital beds are found in Cairo

One half of all university desks are found in Cairo




If Cairo were a sovereign nation it would be the 5th largest Arab country

Alexandria, the second largest city in Egypt, in only 30 percent the size of Cairo.

Cairo is home to Al Azhar University, the world's oldest surviving degree granting university.

There are over 2,000,000 cars in the streets of Cairo, 60 percent of which are over ten years old.

The Great Pyramids of Giza, sort of Cairo, are the only remaining  monument of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

An estimated 9,351 under-age marriages take place in Egypt, with the vast majority of them taking place in Cairo.

A Greek papyrus from 163 B.C. mentions girls in Egypt undergoing female circumcision and the practice is widely accepted to have originated in Egypt and the Nile valley at the time of the Pharaohs. Although both Al Azhar religious officials and Coptic Pope state it has no basis in religious scripture, practice, or law and it should be not practiced.

The average Egyptian spends 110 Egyptian pounds on cigarettes, that's about 20 dollars, a month.

Mohsen Reda, an Egyptian Member of Parliament, was asked about the prevalence of sexual harassment against women in Egypt and was quoted as as saying that women should be dressed more modestly as “a lot of our youth can’t afford marriage so it is only normal for some harassment to take place.”

The minimum monthly salary of an Egyptian government employee is just LE 289 (53 US dollars).